When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.
This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.
“I am totally surprised,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.
The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.
It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.
Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.
Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.
The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.
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